Dress shirt makers are giving us more options without the need for a mandatory trip to the tailor. Classic fit shirts generally involve WAY too much fabric, and can make our mid-section look like Jabba The Hut. Enter the Fitted and Slim Fit Dress shirts. Now, each manufacturer seems to have a different interpretation of the two, so use these tips for the right fit for you.

#1 The Precursor

Know your body. In most cases that I’ve seen, the fitted shirt is cut normal at the shoulder, with a taper to the waist. Perfect for guys with the athletic “V” body style. The slim fit shirt, however, if often more narrow in the shoulder, then cut straight. This cut is more for the slender body type: narrow shoulders and a small waist. But don’t follow this rule to a “T,” it can vary by manufacturer.

#2 Try It On

Before dropping any money on an expensive dress shirt, be sure to try it on first. Once you get a feel for what fit suits you best (for each maker), you won’t necessarily have to go through the anguish of removing all of the pins and needles each time you are looking to buy. For me, I like the Van Heusen fitted shirt in a 15 ½, 34/35. But for Tommy Hilfiger, I prefer the Slim Fit. So try it on, then take a mental note of your research, it will save you some time in the long run.

#3 The Collar

The proper fitted shirt around the shoulders and torso does nothing for you if the neck is sized wrong. When unbuttoned, the wrong neck size will make the collar lay flat, giving you that sloppy look. When buttoned, it can make you look like you’re wearing a hula hoop around your neck. The proper neck size will make your collar pop, and give you that sharp look. Make sure you can fit one finger comfortably between the collar and your neck. If two or three fingers will fit, it’s way too big.

Just remember, the goal here is simply to trim the fat. Keep your shirts lean and trim, no need for that extra fabric.